We used to go shopping in Italy, now we travel as tourist explorers

Last minute travel.

According to the good, old custom, at the end of August we are briefly transformed from hosts to modern tourists. The decision about the trip is made at the last minute, according to the possibilities of organizing work and free time. The decision on the goals of the trip is also made the day before departure. The decision was made on Monday, August 26, to go to Emilia-Romagna by car the next day.

The first destination is Ferrara, about 5 hours' drive from Krk.

As Wikipedia says: "Emilia-Romagna is an administrative region in Northern Italy that consists of two historical regions - Emilia and Romagna. The borders of the region are determined by the Adriatic Sea in the east, the Po River in the north and the Apennine mountain range in the south." The region has about 4,5 million inhabitants, the capital is Bologna with 400.000 inhabitants and 100.000 students at the oldest university in Europe (founded in 1088) .

More famous cities besides Bologna are Ferrara, Modena, Piacenza, Parma, Ravenna, Rimini...

The first association with this region is that it is - powerful!

Among agricultural products, Aceto balsamico di Modena, Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma are world-famous... In the auto-moto industry, Ferrari, Maserati, Lamborghini, Dallara, Pagani cars, Tazzari Ev, Ducati...
In music, Giuseppe Verdi, Arturo Toscanini, Luciano Pavarotti, Lucio Dalla, Gianni Morandi, Raffaella Cara, Zucchero, and many others brand the region as a place of fine art.

Even one folk song has also reached world fame. The song of the rice pickers from the Po valley "Alla mattina appena alzata", which was composed in the 19th century, became world popular after being transformed into the song of the partisan resistance movement "Bella ciao". Even today, it is the most performed song by street musicians in the square "Palazzo del Podesta", in front of the city administration.

Ferrara

Entering the suburbs of Ferrara is reminiscent of scenes from American movies. Neighborhoods inhabited by immigrants represent the first, lowest rung of social ascent. Frequent police and military patrols suggest that society is undergoing a profound transformation. Europe is generally dying, those who disappear are being replaced by new peoples. We witnessed the same scene in other cities in Italy. Now that millennium transition is the most obvious and painful. Through the long future, a new civilization will be created on the "ruins" of the existing one. But that's another topic.

A completely different world is revealed in the center of Ferrara. A beautiful, Renaissance city with numerous sights. The houses of the great, in order to save them from decay, are turned into small, boutique hotels, restaurants, fashion clothing stores or they are given social content. We stayed at the Princess Art Hotel right next to the pedestrian zone of the historic core of the city https://www.tripadvisor.com/LocationPhotoDirectLink-g194760-d9784300-i490254993-Princess_Art_Hotel-Ferrara_Province_of_Ferrara_Emilia_Romagna.html .

The price of a double room with breakfast is 64 euros / night. The position of the hotel is ideal for exploring the surroundings.
As wish says https://www.wish.hr/ferara-grad-najljepsih-palaca/ : It is a city of exceptional fairy-tale beauty and a large number of extremely beautiful historical buildings. Ferrara is known for a large number of churches, monasteries, palaces, museums and art galleries, a fortress and a university founded way back in 1391. sights, and the main part in the city of Ferrara dates from the 14th and 15th centuries.

We focus our research in the late evening hours on the restaurant. Tired from the journey, we intuitively stop in front of the restaurant "Il Ciclone" https://www.tripadvisor.it/Restaurant_Review-g194760-d2098285-Reviews-Il_Ciclone-Ferrara_Province_of_Ferrara_Emilia_Romagna.html#/media/2098285/713317025:p/?albumid=101&type=0&category=101

We visited that restaurant the second day. So we got into a conversation with our waitress, who revealed to us that she was from Moldova. She said that she has managed well in Ferrari, she has been there for a couple of years. He speaks excellent Italian, spends his summer with friends in Croatia and is about to go to Istria, where they have rented a villa with a swimming pool near Pula.

In Ferrara, on the recommendation of our friend Slavica, we visited a unique castle - Castello Estense. The stories of Lucrezia Borgia and her third husband Alfonso I d Este are attached to that castle. There are many intriguing stories related to the fateful Lucrezia, the illegitimate daughter of Pope Alexander VI.

The island of Krk is also connected to the Estense castle. It was there that Stjepan Frankopan, of the line of the princes of Krk, married Princess Isotta, daughter of Prince Ferrara Niccolo III d'Esta, and took her to his Senj. This time we only had a brief introduction to this imposing building, some next trip will be dedicated to researching the medieval connections of the famous Krk and Croatian noble family with the Italian nobility.

After dinner, we attended an unexpected spectacle in the main town square. Il palio di Ferrara has been held since 1279 and is the oldest neighborhood competition in Italy. Every year, 8 neighborhoods compete in a horse race, which is accompanied by a celebration with ancient customs. We had the opportunity to attend the training of the flag bearers who, with the medieval musical support of drums and trumpets, perform incredible choreographies and acrobatics with the flags.

You can see and feel the pride of the people who respect tradition and revive the scenes of the medieval city. There we also tasted the extraordinary "Grappa" made from local grape varieties. It is not made from already used drops, but grapes are picked and processed only for this brandy. The presentation, the tasting, the bottle... everything is superb with the warning of the bar manager that their brandies cost 8 euros. It is the price of a special selection of selected distillates. Presented and offered in this way, it is not difficult to accept, try and pay.

We spent the second night in Ferrari in the house "Studio 27".

These are rooms with a bathroom in a house located about 80 meters from our hotel. When there is no room in the hotel, you can book a comfortable room and breakfast, which is included in the price, is served in the hotel. This is a kind of "diffuse" hotel that works well here. The price is the same, 64 euros for a double room with breakfast.
Ferrara is normally a city of bicycles. Really everyone uses this simple and economical means of transport. Both young and old, natives and newcomers, immigrants... The bikes are comfortable, urban... everything reminds a bit of scenes from Dutch cities.

Bologna

From Ferrara we go towards Modena and Bologna. The first "stop", Bologna, the capital of the region. Bologna, with its 400.000 inhabitants and 100.000 students, is a very lively, vibrant city.https://www.bolognawelcome.com/en It is much more "touristic" than Ferrara. First we decided to walk around the city, we parked in the garage in the center. The garage is a former car service, adapted to new needs. We walk towards the center and our "landmark" is a medieval "skyscraper" almost 100 meters high.

Asinelli, a higher tower, and Garisende, a twice lower tower, both built at the beginning of the 12th century, are symbols of the city. Garisende leaned even more than the famous tower of Pisa, so it is currently in the rescue phase using the foundation stabilization method. This undertaking will last 10 years and will cost (for now) 4,3 million euros. No one knows the true purpose of these towers, although it is assumed that they served as observation posts and communication points. Allegedly, there were even over a hundred of them in those ancient times.

Bologna is considered by many to be the second most interesting city in Italy, after Venice. Due to its distinctive, well-preserved medieval architecture and historical significance, Bologna is truly a city worthy of attention. To begin with, we wanted to climb the city tower with a clock mechanism, which is located within the city hall. We followed the signs to the second floor of the town hall to be taken back to the tourist board office where tickets are purchased. And we did it without question because we expected, justifiably, a magnificent window from above.

That's how it was. The well-restored clock tower is truly a point of interest not to be missed. That view and experience are worth every cent. The price is 10 euros. Bologna is also a city of "arches", passageways, phenomena that also adorn other historical cities such as Ferrara, Modena...namely, in the Middle Ages, in the Renaissance era, if you built a house, a building in the street and the ground floor were "let free" in the width of one bar so that it remained a public area, a kind of covered walkway, you were entitled to a tax deduction.

These vaulted passages provide great protection from rain and sun and in Bologna they stretch for as long as 64 kilometers. Especially gracefully executed, decorated, they represent a unique example of a private investment for public use. That is why they are under the protection of UNESCO. https://www.bolognawelcome.com/en/places/towers-historic-buildings/torre-accursi-o-dellorologio-2

While walking around the city, we "ran into" the university gallery and the brunch bar on the ground floor, where it is worth taking a break and drinking coffee. We "ran in" for lunch at the last minute. Restaurants are open twice and most of them have an afternoon break that starts at 14:00. Of course, we tried the real "pasta bolognese", beef ragu with noodles. The story goes that American soldiers in 2nd St. during the war, they were delighted with this dish and started looking for it upon returning home. Practical Americans combined spaghetti with ragu instead of noodles. But in Bologna they still serve the original dish in white and red versions. And it was good.

B&B San Luca in a residential building

It's time to register your stay at our B&B San Luca. This is an interesting accommodation in a residential building. It is a renovated apartment on the ground floor, offering two rooms with a bathroom, a shared kitchen / living room. In the refrigerator on each shelf with the name of the room, breakfast items have been prepared. Tables equipped for breakfast are also marked. In the same area there is also a small kitchen, coffee machine, washing machine.

It is actually a room service with a self-service breakfast. The accommodation is organized so that the host welcomes you, provides you with all the information, and is always available by phone. The accommodation also has its own parking space in the closed courtyard of the building. There is also a bus stop near the building, with bus line number 13 to the city center. This turned out to be very practical for an evening out.

An evening walk through the city, and a light dinner in one of the many prosciutterii "La prosciutteria aziende Renascimentho" from Firenze. Great approach, good value for money, easy service. Meal prices are very decent as well as drink prices. We hardly feel the difference compared to Croatia. Indeed. We were often surprised by cheaper prices for the same or better offer.

After dinner, we are looking for some entertainment, so we "stumbled" on "jazz street". In that street, two catering facilities have guest programs by famous jazz musicians. We "caught" part of the atmosphere of the street performance of excellent musicians. Concerts are co-financed through consumption. An additional 10 euros is paid per bill for music. Bologna has a phenomenal jazz scene https://www.bolognajazzfestival.com/ .

Returning to our "B&B San Luca" was easy. We could also afford a glass of wine, we returned by the same bus line no. 13.
Departure from Bologna with "self check-out" in agreement with our hosts went according to plan. We are disciplined guests and we leave the accommodation exactly at 10:00.

Modena - aceto balsamico

We go towards Modena through the small town of Spilamberto, where the "Museum of traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena" is located. There we learn a lot of interesting facts related to this superb gourmet specialty.

Balsamico got its name from its curative, balsamic properties and has been produced since ancient times. What is characteristic of balsamic vinegar is that it is obtained from unused grape berries of three local varieties. The beans are crushed and then the must is boiled all night at a temperature of around 90 degrees Celsius. This part of the work is done by women. This is where female pedantry and precision are required. The must is constantly cleaned from the sediment that floats to the surface.

After boiling and cooling, the must is poured into the first, largest barrel. Barrels are made from three types of wood, each stage of aging uses a barrel with a different wood structure. Barrels have an opening at the top through which the liquid evaporates. Once a year the contents are transferred from one barrel to another, there are usually between 5 and 7 in a row and each one is smaller than the previous one.

This procedure is repeated for at least 12 and at most 24 years. Younger or older balsamic vinegar from Modena is then obtained, which has a very characteristic taste. That taste lasts a very long time in the mouth. The younger one is sharper and the older one is sweeter in taste. This ingredient is the highlight of many haute cuisine delicacies and is extremely affordable. In the museum, vinegar is produced by members of the society of tradition worshipers, among whom are many distinguished people from the Modena region.

Being a member of the company and producing your own aceto balsamico is a great honor. Once a year, a rating review of balsamic vinegar is organized, and getting the best rating is equivalent to winning the world championship in Formula 1. It is not surprising that Scuderia Ferrari is also one of the members of this society.

Modena

Informed by the story of balsamic vinegar, we continue our journey towards Modena. We reach the very center of the city. There we found a large parking garage under the old hippodrome and the archeological park Novi Ark. The imposing Doge's Palace, the City Hall on Piazza Grande, as well as many other sights are under the protection of UNESCO.

In recent times, Modena is famous for the giant of the automobile industry, Enzo Ferrari https://www.ferrari.com/en-EN/museums/enzo-ferrari-modena and one of the most famous tenors at the turn of the 20th and 21st centuries, Luciano Pavarotti https://www.casamuseolucianopavarotti.it/en/ .

A short tour of the city, then to the hotel to check in. We chose a hotel somewhere halfway between Modena and Marinello https://emiliaromagnaturismo.it/en/towns/maranello .

We found a 4-star hotel with a good price https://www.hotelarthur.it/ . In general, our prices ranged from 32 to 60 euros per person for bed and breakfast. Modena did not particularly charm us in the evening. Except for ice cream, which is good and better everywhere. Nothing bad and nothing little. And the dinner was good. A good thing is the possibility of choosing and combining appetizers, first course and main course. In the evening, just one sequence is enough. Portions are good.

A morning walk and starting the day with an Aperol - spritz cocktail opened a new perspective. Walking through the green market in Modena is a great experience. The fruit offered is extremely good. The prices are "ours", maybe a little better. A kilo of large, fleshy good plums 3,5 euros. Farmed bream, from Greece, 18 euros per kilo, "wild" bream 40 euros per kilo. It is similar with sea bass. You can have brunch, even lunch at the beautiful and interesting market.

We still decided to visit the recommended restaurant "Ristorante da Danilo". The recommendation was good. Ravioli stuffed with meat in parmesan sauce, large portion 12,50 euros. That would be a counterpart to our šurlica with sauce, the price of which is around 15 euros.

Maranello Ferrari

Refreshed by lunch, treated to excellent ice cream, we head towards Maranello, where at 16:00 PM we begin a guided tour of the Ferrari factory. The city bus ride through the factory yards did not quite meet our expectations. This is not recommended. A much better choice is driving and visiting the racetrack in Imola. It simply "didn't fit" into our schedule because of the San Marino Grand Prix that was just being raced in Imola. But after the "overture" and a lot of interesting information from our guide, after this tour, we enter the museum because we already bought tickets for Saturday afternoon.

The museum is worth attention. You can really see everything that Ferrari has made throughout its development from the late forties of the last century to the present day in this museum. The story of Ferrari is also the story of its founder, Enzo Ferrari, who was born in Modena. From the very beginning, the seat of his manufactory was first in Modena, then in Maranello, and he never wanted to change that.

As a symbol of his cars, he took a prancing horse at the persuasion of the mother of an air force hero from the First World War, Francesco Baracco, who had that sign on his plane. "Take that sign, it will bring you luck," said Mrs. Baracca to Enzo, he accepted it and made no mistake.

Some of Enzo Ferrari's statements have become legendary, such as: "Which is the best Ferrari?" The next one" or, "Factories are made of people, technical equipment, walls. Ferrari is made primarily by people".

Today, Ferrari vehicles are still made by hand, the delivery time is one year, and 5.000 employees produce around 30.000 vehicles annually. The biggest market for Ferrari is the USA, but this prestigious car is sold on all continents, and buyers of new cars must have a good CV and, of course, generous financial resources. The lowest price of a new car starts at 230.00 euros and goes up to 700.000 euros. The older they are, the more they are valued. Especially some models. In 2023, a Ferrari 48.2 LM/330 GTO by Scaglietti from 250, which competed in the 1962 Hours of Le Mans race and has a very respectable history, was sold at auction for 24 million euros.

Enzo Ferrari was living his dream. He wanted to race, he started with motorcycles, continued with cars that he constructed himself. In order to be able to finance the races, he offered the market "civilized" racing cars. And that's where the legend of Ferrari was born. Scuderia Ferrari has been in Formula 1 since the beginning with good and bad periods. Certainly the most brilliant period of Ferrari was marked by drivers who entered eternity with their charisma. They are Ayrton Senna https://www.formula1.com/en/information/drivers-hall-of-fame-ayrton-senna.FLD7ZtO0nUn7JzLEn5rOJ and Michael Schumacher https://www.formula1.com/en/information/drivers-hall-of-fame-michael-schumacher.7KdX5nJlTG55vR5JQSbZ21 .

After a tour of the museum, which opened a new dimension to the story of Ferrari, Enzo, Schumacher, Senna and many other famous people connected to this legendary car, we understand the true value of the legendary horse.

Saturday - a day for festivities

It's Saturday evening, everything is emptying, we are the last visitors. Music is heard in the nearby bowling alley. We are coming to the sound rehearsal of a rock band. Enough for a light dinner.

On the way back to the hotel, we decided to walk to the center of the village. A surprise awaited us there. The three-day festival of the patron saint of the parish, Madonna della Cintura, reached its culmination on Saturday evening. A well-organized community prepared food and drinks for all its members, accompanied by a musical ensemble from a neighboring town. Music veterans, children running around the tables, neighbors, friends, whole families at the table, humanitarian lottery and a large number of engaged parishioners create a special atmosphere. We joined for a drink and enjoyed a warm summer night at a village fiesta. We couldn't have wished for a better end to our trip to Emilia-Romagna.

Goodbye Emilia - Romagna

Sunday is the day to go from Emilia-Romagna, but also to the famous outlet village of Noventa di Piave near Venice. A large selection of well-known high fashion brands attracts customers at all times. We needed a little break, refreshment, a walk, good ice cream and we found it all here. Except for some interesting item of clothing. But that is quite a minor matter.

At the end, refreshed by new experiences, we return to Krk. It seems to us that we haven't gone far. In terms of time, Ferrara is as far from Krk as Split, Venice is closer to us than Zadar, Trieste from Zagreb. We conclude that Italy has improved significantly in the quality of accommodation in the last ten years, the food in restaurants is very affordable, good, as well as the service. Ice cream is a mythical thing in Italy, as well as coffee, sweet and salty snacks...

We used to go to Italy to buy something there that we don't have here. Now we travel as tourist explorers and enjoy the wealth of cultural sights, historic cities, authentic customs and good gastronomy.

The world is changing, but so are we. Every trip is a small tourism academy, we can't help it. Some things simply "get under your skin" as a "tourist being". You can feel the ecosystem of the community where you live, notice the important and the secondary; distinguish real life from shows for tourists... Yes. Emilia-Romagna is a place to return to. I hope it will be soon.

Author: Nedo Pinezić, www.nedopinezic.com / Photo: Mihai Vlasceanu,Pexels.com